Barceloneta

Very few people actually lived in Barceloneta prior to the mid-18th century. Due to its proximity to the sea, fishermen were the first to settle the area, where the living conditions were truly precarious. The first houses were built in 1754, and the neighbourhood came to life, quickly attracting a population of fishermen and people working in a variety of harbour-related professions.

Nowadays, the neighbourhood maintains the same characteristic atmosphere; that of a village seemingly far removed from the city. The environment of the neighbourhood, however, has changed drastically, something that becomes especially apparent during the summer season. The adjacent beach is one of the liveliest, both during the day and at night, when the chiringuitos open. These beach bars, located right on the sand, are great places to go to for dinner or a drink. The pleasant atmosphere is inviting and it is easy to stay here until late into the night.

Despite this modern facet, Barceloneta still smells like salt and feels like a true seaside enclave. Many consider it a treasure that a neighbourhood such as this still exists in a city like Barcelona. And it does seem somewhat odd that these narrow streets, marked by humidity and darkened by salt residue, contain some of the city's best restaurants and docks that attract luxurious yachts.

The Barceloneta underground station (line L4) is a good departure point for any walk through the area. The neighbourhood can also be explored using the Golondrinas, typical boats that depart from the port area in front of the Christopher Columbus monument. However, bear in mind that this only reveals the Barceloneta seafront, and this neighbourhood's true charm lies in getting lost in its maze of little streets.

The route along the Passeig Joan de Borbó starts at the Palau de Mar building. The Palau de Mar houses the Catalonian History Museum (Plaça Pau de la Vila, 3. Tel. 932 254 700). The museum has a permanent exhibition that offers insight into Catalonia's history, starting at prehistoric times and covering the industrial revolution, the years of the dictatorship and the current democratic system. Furthermore, the cafe's terrace is an excellent observation deck with views onto the neighbourhood and the port.

Close to the museum, next to the Moll dels Pescadors, stands the Torre del Reloj (Clocktower). This is the area's oldest structure, dating back to the year 1772. It served as the harbour's lighthouse until the middle of the 19th century. When the harbour was modernised, the lighthouse's duties became irrelevant. There was strong interest in keeping the tower's structure, so its function was changed to that of a clock. Sunset is the best time to visit this area. Around 5pm is when the fishing boats start returning to the harbour and, much like in fishing villages along the coast, the fish is auctioned off. This event takes place in a building called La Llotja. It will be more than difficult to gain access, but you should definitely give it an honest effort!

From here on down towards the beach, the leftside of the neighbourhood truly conserves its traditional character: balconies with washing drying in the sun, establishments of all kinds, wine cellars (bodegas), bars and restaurants of great renown, such as Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4). This venerable spot is more than 100 years old and serves the best seafood in the area.

Barceloneta is one of the best places for fresh fish in all of Barcelona. If you prefer to skip the menu, then tapas are definitely a must. The classic tapa here is called la bomba (the bomb) and consists of a potato ball stuffed with meat and served with spicy sauce or the traditional all i oli (a delicious paste made from garlic and olive oil). This isn't recommended for sensitive palates and, if necessary, a refreshing draft beer or beer from the barrel is always at hand and served very cold!

Thanks to its long history, the neighbourhood also has its share of churches, such as the barroque-era Sant Miquel del Port located in the Plaça Barceloneta. Flamenco lovers must also stop in at the fountain near to the Carrer Sant Carles. It was built in honour of the dancer Carmen Amaya, who was born here when shantytowns filled the neighbourhood, and Barceloneta was home to many gypsies. The shantytowns were taken down in the 1970s, but the memories still linger.

The entire ambiance changes when you come to the beach. Barceloneta is a cosmopolitan area now, which is most clearly apparent during the summer months. The beach is one of the city's liveliest. While beachgoers sunbathe on the sand, there is no shortage of people offering massages or cold drinks and snacks (including doughnuts!). Others prefer to turn up the volume and dance to Cuban music, and some daredevils even try to fly their kites despite the many people. And although the beach gets quite crowded, this is truly a spot that has a place for everyone.

Barceloneta is also connected to the Port Vell (Old Port), a stretch of land that the city won back from the sea. It can also be accessed from the footbridge that picks up where the Rambla ends. This bustling area is home to a busy shopping centre with a vast assortment of stores, restaurants, bars as well as two of the city's most innovative museums and cultural centres: the IMAX theatre and the Aquarium.

The IMAX Theatre (Moll d’Espanya, s/n. Tel. 932 251 111) is the city's most modern cinema. It shows films made with Imax, Omnimax and 3D technology. Can you imagine what it feels like to take a 3D journey into the human body or listen to the music of Carlinhos Brown on the best soundsystem in the world? At the IMAX you can actually experience all that. The Aquarium (Moll d’Espanya, s/n. Tel. 932 217 474) is the largest of its kind in Europe and has the widest selection of Mediterranean marine life. The space consists of 20 enormous tanks and a transparent tunnel, which you can walk through ... surrounded by sharks. The most recently inaugurated section, Explora, incorporates interactive activities designed specifically for children that allow them to not only observe the marine eco-system but also touch and investigate it.